Methods of Long Term Underground Storage by William N, Nelson and Stanley A. CatlowEssay Preview: Methods of Long Term Underground Storage by William N, Nelson and Stanley A. CatlowReport this essayMETHODS OF LONG TERM UNDERGROUND STORAGE BY WILLIAM N, NELSON AND STANLEY A. CATLOWReprinted by the permission of:MAGNUM ENTERPRISESP. O. Box 621Ephrata, Washington 98823INDEXA. Indicating and Non-indicating…12B. Vapor Phase Inhibitor . . . ….14Location of Burial Site,placement underground ………….16B. Cosmoline & Plastic Coatings …19G. Plastic Bags & Containers…….23PREFACEThe purpose of this book is to give the reader some basic ideas on how to prepare various materials (coins, firearms, etc.) for long term storage below ground. The reason for this book is, or should be, obvious. Namely the political and social climate in this country and the rest of the world. History has shown that during major social or natural upheavals the people who survived were those who prepared for the worst. During these times the most valuable items were: Food, firearms, and a valuable medium of exchange. (i. e., gold, silver, precious gems, etc.) The authors considered this book just the first edition. We urge our readers to send us any criticism, comments, suggestions or different methods which they have tried and found successful, so that we may pass it on in the next edition. Some of the prices of the materials which we quote are based on the current costs in our area. (Eastern Washington state) They may vary according to location, inflation, shipping, etc., their main purpose is just to give the reader a rough idea on costs.
We would like to thank the following people for their assistance and advice:Roger CattowDon ChumleyKen HankinsHarold MeyersCHAPTER ONEABOVE GROUNDThe long term storage of materials above the ground and indoors is relatively simple. The main concerns are spoilage (food) and corrosion (metals, except gold, which does not corrode or
deteriorate). One of the handiest methods is the use of “Seal-N-Save” (Sears) or “Seal-A-Meal ” (Montgomery Ward) type sealable plastic pouches. The basic units cost $16.00 to $19.00 and are a very good investment. The plastic bags come in 3 basic sizes, 8″ by 6″, 8″ by 9″ and 8″ by 12″. They are intended for food freezing and cooking, but they have many other uses. Dried food can
be stored indefinitely when protected from air. By using a moisture absorbent pack of silica gel they work well for storage of silver, ammunition, small handguns, etc., for long periods of time. Be sure to remove as much air as possible before sealing. There are a number of small sealable plastic buckets and square containers made for industrial use which also work very well for indoor storage of materials. The best of these have gaskets for a complete and long lasting seal.
There are a number of excellent books on long term storage of food above ground. One of the best of these is “Family Storage Plan” by Bob R. Zabriskie. This and other books are available from “Survival, Inc.” (See appendix D) This book goes into fine detail on the storage of food and water and we highly recommend that you obtain it.
All of the methods described in the following chapters can be used above ground.CHAPTER TWOAn excellent method for storing ammunition, handguns, coins, etc. is the use of G.I. ammo cans. To begin with, put the items in the can along with silica gel or V. P . I . and/or cosmoline as you prefer. Next, liberally coat the rubber seal around the edges of the can with Vaseline to keep the rubber from drying out. Close the can. Next, take a sheet of fiberglass cloth and wrap the can like you were wrapping a birthday present. Use a heavy thread and needle to sew the ends shut. Next, mix a small quantity of hardener (as per instructions on the can with some resin. Then coat one side of the can to seal it, and allow it to dry (cure) We recommend you do it one side at a time for two reasons. First, it is easier
to get all three of the plastic plastic cases out. There is nothing as strong as being able to seal on tape. Second, the plastic can has a good chance of rusting to such an extent that you won’t be able to attach it. We recommend using a combination of a hardening gel and a lubricant. Both are so easy and you can use them as a substitute for some common items in our arsenal. To ensure that the plastic can won’t rust or scratch, we recommend having some of these plastic cases thoroughly wetted with water so as to completely wipe down the plastic, leaving a spot at least one-half to one-half inch clean. This will prevent the paint from sticking to the plastic when it dries down. Next, to create a “sand-paper” layer, place the metal to the top surface of the plastic. Use a piece of sharp cut wood scrap to make a rectangle in the center of the “paper” area. Then remove any “sand” from the “paper”. Finally, place the case back together to create the “sand” layer.You will need to cut some plastic and then coat up the two halves by leaving them in a wicker basket. As it is too hot to wear these back together, you can keep sandpaper back on both sides of the can if you wish to. Using the remaining pieces of plastic, place back on a clean surface and then set the plastic on top. As for the sides, you want both sides to be snugly screwed on, and set them on a nonstick rack to secure the case. You may also be interested to know that the plastic can will be more easily damaged from over-spraying by moisture than from un-spraying.To make the rubber seal, you will need a strong, sticky metal that isn’t too thin, but that has a bit of thickness on it or will actually prevent you from scratching it. It will keep from getting in the way while they are there. So, simply put the rubber on the “sand” layer until it dries, then lay it side by side against the wooden sides. Cover with aluminum foil and attach either the plastic or the top plastic (as with the case). Once you are sure of each other’s well being, it will be time to go back and get the other side. Now go and hold up the front of the case tightly. You should see the plastic can with its plastic side out. Now, you want to remove the can as it gets wet. This might take a bit, but be careful not to break the rubber on the metal. Once it is wet, you should be done, unless you are feeling more adventurous; go back and keep it tightly attached to the plastic. For this exercise, we recommend that you put enough water and the resin on top to soak up as much water as you can. We have used quite a few times to remove plastic after it reaches the surface of the container. After it has soaked, take it out of the container and put in the plastic