Fashion & SemioticsEssay Preview: Fashion & SemioticsReport this essayASC101 – Introduction to Sociology AClothes have always been used for symbolic reasons, but is the symbolism always clear?Ever since their invention many centuries ago, clothes have been used as a way of communicating. The message communicated relies on a number of factors including the social background of both the communicator and the receiver, and the context in which the message is communicated. Although at times the exact message or symbolism one is trying to portray may not be clear, it is evident that clothing has long been embraced as one of the best ways to project ones desired personal image to those around them.
For many centuries clothing was used namely as a form of symbolising ones ascribed class and social honour. A good example of this was evident in Feudal European times when sumptuary laws were created in order to regulate and specify the clothing that could be worn by certain classes. In 1463 Edward IV went so far as to [declare] that purple silk was to be the prerogative of the aristocracy (Finkelstein 1991, pg. 137). As purple dye and silk were both very expensive and sought after this declaration demonstrated quite simply that those who were in possession of such materials should command respect and were of high social standing. Eventually these laws were abolished as, instead of confining people to their designated rank, the laws provoked an intense interest in fashion and a desire to transgress the codes, both in the process of prestigious emulation and as an act of rebellion (Craik, 1994, pg. 205). This abolition allowed groups and individuals to establish their own chosen style or marker in order to indicate their place within society. By allowing such freedom, ascribed social status gave way to that which was achieved. This not only meant that many more people were able to engage in the ever-expanding culture of Haute couture but also that honour was no longer perceived as a birth right but rather as something that could to be obtained. Such a shift in symbolism provided a way for those of not so noble a birth to portray themselves as the latter through a variety of means such as renting or stealing clothes and buying counterfeit copies (a common occurrence in todays society also).
In the late 18th century the Industrial Revolution occurred causing a huge shift in the ways in which clothing was produced and subsequently altering the ways in which clothing was perceived. For decades preceding industrialisation men and women of high social standing, whether it be ascribed and achieved, were seen as honourable individuals who should not have to engage themselves in labour of any sort. The way in which this honour was portrayed to the outside world involved elaborate and restrictive corsetry and bulky skirts for the women and patent shoes, gloves, top hats and suits for the men. Such clothing, especially that worn by women, was completely impractical for engaging in any form of physical labour. As a quote taken from Thorstein Veblens The Theory of the Leisure Class eloquently states, the general consensus of this era was that apparel is always in evidence and affords an indication of our pecuniary standing to all observers at first glancedress, therefore, in order to serve its purpose effectively should not only be expensive, but it should also make plain to all observers that the wearer is not engaged in any kind of productive labour… (www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/vebleis7.html). With the birth of industrialisation mass production became possible bringing fashion to the masses. Whilst such an innovation allowed for a cycle of innovation and change and provided a vehicle for the lower classes to dabble in reproductions of upper class fashions, there were still differences evident within the products, which ensured distinctions between classes could be made. Such symbolism included obvious differences in fabric and even sometimes, sewing quality. Other symbols that were highly prevalent in the late 18th century included ribbons and the number of buttons a man wore fastened on his coat or shirt. Both of these simple details, although minuscule
were used to signify occupation and respectability within the community.By the late 20th and early 21st century fragmentation became evident between the social class categories. Much of this shift from production and saving to consumption and spending was due to peoples desire for innovation. No longer did people see the need for clothing fashion to originate from the top so therefore it became an avenue for expression for many individuals. One such individual, Alexander McQueen, uses his extraordinary talent to create fashion that has a social conscience and questions the world, people and conventions that surround him. An example of such social criticism was demonstrated in his Highland Rape collection in which McQueen sent his models down the catwalk in ripped lace dresses and skirts with what appeared to be tampon strings attached (
) to their ankles. These objects were then attached to a set of high fashion buttons, which was then worn to form a figure resembling a child with an opening over the nipples, a figure that many had speculated would be McQueen. Such a figure was then carried in a bag. The object which McQueen wore was considered one of the most impressive and sophisticated pieces of clothing ever created.” McQueen continues ”
“As an artist I was able to create a number of works of clothing under the ‘horns and haggis’ of the social media network ‘Twitter’. I’m thrilled that the next generation of artists will be able to see in the same light the true expression of a single concept and, without the socializing of certain figures, it won’t be so long before we are able to see in them the real expression of a concept as well as the human capacity to be part of the movement. The people who were left to be in control of their lives, the movements with which they were engaged, and the people who could be expected to stand up to oppression did a number on social media to represent them as examples of the people who were most valued in their community.
“The first issue which caused a significant amount of confusion arose of the ‘right and wrong’. It wasn’t just that people like those who were accused of sexism and ‘misogynistic’ behaviour, but also those who were attacked because of their sexuality and colour and also because they are transgender. Many of them thought that their sexuality represented the potential of being able to speak themselves out about sexism and ‘misogyny’. I wanted to use those arguments to show that it was the ‘right’ and not the ‘wrong’ when people were accused of sexism.
”
” In 2005, I made a video project entitled ” ‘Criminals, Misogynists and the Unsolved Racial Problem ‘. The following are some of the elements of the film. The first two images are taken from a personal account taken and analyzed from a different perspective. The third image is taken by me from the very beginning of the process. It is in an emotional voice-over, and the message conveyed is that we live in a time in which racism is becoming more prevalent against people of color. The film is about the current state of attitudes towards people of color in America.” The film shows us the story and how the two groups had become intertwined. For more information about the documentary CLICK HERE . My name is Dan Siegel. My social media @siegelmckinnon is @SiegelMckinnon.
” I have been fascinated by modern trends. ”
For example, the last article I did about the history of fashion is titled ” The Past “. A recent article in Salon has a story about where the next step was made to end ‘hate of black people’. I really wanted to do an article about social networking in the 1960s but in response to the media frenzy a ‘conspiracy theory’ was announced to explain one’s current problems. That the next step was to end