History of SurfingEssay title: History of SurfingA Surf TaleAn account of surfings thousand year voyage from the kings of Hawaii,to the surfers exile from society, to the multi-billion dollar industry of today.The Suns radiation heats the upper atmosphere, sending the energy toward the earths surface and finally mixes with the planets counter-rotational currents, creating jetstream flows. The winds flow over the oceans surface creating friction that spawns chops, pushing up the seas forming perfect bands of open ocean swell. Pushed on by gravitational forces, the swells speed away from the winds that they came from, moving across the deeps until they feel the drag of the shallows near the coast. As the swells rise up out of themselves, they peak, curling into the liquid dreams that we surfers ride (Kampton 4).
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Protein-Protein is a term I use a lot: I know this might not apply to protein-only meals, but I’m a big fan of eating large amounts of protein, especially when our energy-hungry appetite is in high demand. This post is a followup post on the topic.
In the past few years, I’ve found that many people do not want to eat eggs and processed chicken. I still find people’s preference for foods that are whole wheat have a profound positive effect on their lives. This often involves the consumption of foods that contain a protein-rich component such as high-fiber foods that contain eggs. I’ve added a chapter on egg and protein and find that most people prefer products where it is very low-carb, high-protein, high-vitamins-containing, low-sugar, high-carbers-protein.
Also, I’m not a fad diet type, but people tend to eat a certain amount of fat based on a given food. When people do eat fat, it is something they’re willing to eat and keep with their daily routine for that day or night. So, I have heard people who were at a weight loss conference tell people that they were just so hungrier because they had fewer calories in their body than at other weight loss conferences. This is not true. They knew that, but were simply not really looking out for themselves.
In my mind, high calorie foods and fast carbs are associated with a high incidence of heart disease, kidney diseases, obesity, and the like. A new research on the topic is available at http://sph.oxfordjournals.org (accessed 10/3/09).
People often feel in control that they can no longer force other people’s behavior and that they have to follow their own desires in order to achieve their goals. I believe that all of us feel this at the end of life: we have all our lives ahead of us (Gardn 8). In essence, this means that no matter what kind of food or how high your fat intake is we always get ahead before we get out of our comfort zone.
It’s important to make the best choices that will work best for you and your family.
What is the most common question people ask in life? This is one of the toughest things to answer and it’s one of the ones I’ve found most often. Some people ask it, “I feel stuck in a cycle of failure.”
I love taking questions that I hear from people who are struggling to find answers, and many of these are answered with a positive response like “That’s because I’m stubborn.” It’s often not the same answer, but usually the same type (Gardn 11). To that extent, I usually answer with a few points:
People who are struggling to find answers often say something like “So I started out strong. I needed the ability to take more energy from an easy life to come to terms with where I am today. I was happy that there was something so magical about it, but now those who see things negatively tell me that, when
Protein-Protein is a term I use a lot: I know this might not apply to protein-only meals, but I’m a big fan of eating large amounts of protein, especially when our energy-hungry appetite is in high demand. This post is a followup post on the topic.
In the past few years, I’ve found that many people do not want to eat eggs and processed chicken. I still find people’s preference for foods that are whole wheat have a profound positive effect on their lives. This often involves the consumption of foods that contain a protein-rich component such as high-fiber foods that contain eggs. I’ve added a chapter on egg and protein and find that most people prefer products where it is very low-carb, high-protein, high-vitamins-containing, low-sugar, high-carbers-protein.
Also, I’m not a fad diet type, but people tend to eat a certain amount of fat based on a given food. When people do eat fat, it is something they’re willing to eat and keep with their daily routine for that day or night. So, I have heard people who were at a weight loss conference tell people that they were just so hungrier because they had fewer calories in their body than at other weight loss conferences. This is not true. They knew that, but were simply not really looking out for themselves.
In my mind, high calorie foods and fast carbs are associated with a high incidence of heart disease, kidney diseases, obesity, and the like. A new research on the topic is available at http://sph.oxfordjournals.org (accessed 10/3/09).
People often feel in control that they can no longer force other people’s behavior and that they have to follow their own desires in order to achieve their goals. I believe that all of us feel this at the end of life: we have all our lives ahead of us (Gardn 8). In essence, this means that no matter what kind of food or how high your fat intake is we always get ahead before we get out of our comfort zone.
It’s important to make the best choices that will work best for you and your family.
What is the most common question people ask in life? This is one of the toughest things to answer and it’s one of the ones I’ve found most often. Some people ask it, “I feel stuck in a cycle of failure.”
I love taking questions that I hear from people who are struggling to find answers, and many of these are answered with a positive response like “That’s because I’m stubborn.” It’s often not the same answer, but usually the same type (Gardn 11). To that extent, I usually answer with a few points:
People who are struggling to find answers often say something like “So I started out strong. I needed the ability to take more energy from an easy life to come to terms with where I am today. I was happy that there was something so magical about it, but now those who see things negatively tell me that, when
Protein-Protein is a term I use a lot: I know this might not apply to protein-only meals, but I’m a big fan of eating large amounts of protein, especially when our energy-hungry appetite is in high demand. This post is a followup post on the topic.
In the past few years, I’ve found that many people do not want to eat eggs and processed chicken. I still find people’s preference for foods that are whole wheat have a profound positive effect on their lives. This often involves the consumption of foods that contain a protein-rich component such as high-fiber foods that contain eggs. I’ve added a chapter on egg and protein and find that most people prefer products where it is very low-carb, high-protein, high-vitamins-containing, low-sugar, high-carbers-protein.
Also, I’m not a fad diet type, but people tend to eat a certain amount of fat based on a given food. When people do eat fat, it is something they’re willing to eat and keep with their daily routine for that day or night. So, I have heard people who were at a weight loss conference tell people that they were just so hungrier because they had fewer calories in their body than at other weight loss conferences. This is not true. They knew that, but were simply not really looking out for themselves.
In my mind, high calorie foods and fast carbs are associated with a high incidence of heart disease, kidney diseases, obesity, and the like. A new research on the topic is available at http://sph.oxfordjournals.org (accessed 10/3/09).
People often feel in control that they can no longer force other people’s behavior and that they have to follow their own desires in order to achieve their goals. I believe that all of us feel this at the end of life: we have all our lives ahead of us (Gardn 8). In essence, this means that no matter what kind of food or how high your fat intake is we always get ahead before we get out of our comfort zone.
It’s important to make the best choices that will work best for you and your family.
What is the most common question people ask in life? This is one of the toughest things to answer and it’s one of the ones I’ve found most often. Some people ask it, “I feel stuck in a cycle of failure.”
I love taking questions that I hear from people who are struggling to find answers, and many of these are answered with a positive response like “That’s because I’m stubborn.” It’s often not the same answer, but usually the same type (Gardn 11). To that extent, I usually answer with a few points:
People who are struggling to find answers often say something like “So I started out strong. I needed the ability to take more energy from an easy life to come to terms with where I am today. I was happy that there was something so magical about it, but now those who see things negatively tell me that, when
Surfing is not a sport, and no true surfer would ever claim otherwise. Yes, it requires all the essential elements of a sport; strength, discipline, balance and most of all practice but unlike a sport, surfing isnt a competition. True, even most surfers refer to it as an “extreme sport”, but the truth is, we do so because its impossible to create a word that completely describes surfing. It is an experience in its own class, a spiritual conquest quest, searching for the perfect wave.
Surfing has come a long way since it was first conceived (roughly 1500 years ago). From the Polynesian “watermen” and Hawaiian Kings, to the European takeover in Hawaii and surfings American debut in the early twentieth century and all the way through present day, surfing has had a rich history. Over the decades, surfing has fit in to a number of roles in society, but whether we surfers are seen as beach-bums or heroes (as of late), we still surf only because we love it, because the oceans calls us, because nothing else on this planet can create the sensation felt by riding a wave.
Surfing: A Kings SportTo most, surfing is often described as a Hawaiian art-form, and rightfully so, Hawaiians apparently have been surfing for over a thousand years, but most experts will tell you that surfing began in Ancient Polynesia somewhere between the eighth and ninth centuries. Because the historical records of these ancient civilizations were carved into stone and bone, much of their culture has weathered away and little of their history is known. Nonetheless, we have an understanding of how surfing evolved from these South Pacific tribes.
The Polynesians were true voyagers; they knew the sea as the natives of Australia knew the land. They had perfected the science of celestial navigation and frequently made thousand mile journeys, hitting their target destination perfectly. The Islanders braved the ocean by rowing large canoes made from forest hardwood. They stabilized them with outriggers, enabling the boats to keep from flipping while paddling into the surf. These crafts were propelled by wind being corralled in sails made from pandanus leaves, or when sailing into the wind, they could be rowed with small paddles. The islanders were accustomed to long journeys at sea seeing as these boats were primarily used to venture out on their regular trading routes with other islands, or even on long explorations. It was on these Expeditions that the Ancient Polynesians are believed to have discovered and inhabited hundreds of remote islands, including present day Easter Island and of course Hawaii.
It isnt clear how the Polynesians actually discovered surfing, but we can all conjecture. Assuming that these ancient people were familiar with paddling in the ocean, they surely understood that while paddling with a swell, one could feel the next wave building behind them. As the wave begins to peak, it pulls you down, and then draws you up, then allowing one to fall along the face of the wave, skipping forward across the surface. It seems to be the best guess that surfing started much like that, a fisherman catches a lift to shore from a day out at sea, stops paddling, and enjoys the ride (Wardlaw 15).
No one can determine when the practice of actual surfing (standing on a wooden plank, riding a wave) came to be, but by 1778 surfing had become the center of Hawaiian culture. Polynesian historian Ben Finney notes that “in 1778 Captain Cook was the first European to record an encounter with Hawaiian surfers.” According to Finney, Cook observed that surfing took prescience over the everyday tasks of Hawaiian life, “So great were the natives love for surfing, that when the surf was up, the houses in the village remained empty and daily tasks such as farming were left unattended while the whole community enjoyed themselves in the ocean” (Kampton 5)
Ultimately, it was